May 2007

Given Spain’s recent history, I am pleased to see security measures in place and police, and security guards with dogs often visible at train and metro stations.

On our first long distance train trip last week there were security checks to go through just like at the airport and bag screening too. No one is allowed on the platform until the train has pulled in. I am happy for them to take as many precautions as they want to make sure the train I am on gets to its destination.

The trains were quite nice too – just a bit fancier than in Australia. We had a TV and personal headphones handed out. The 2 movies offered were not bad but dubbed in Spanish of course (and with Spanish sub-titles as well!) All the announcements were in 3 languages – the last one apparently English but we couldn’t understand anything. The seats partially reclined and our seats had a fixed table and desk lamp which made it seem very swish.

The dining car was modern and I must say I am very happy with the coffee in Spain– even train coffee is above average. The worst coffee so far has been at fast food outlets – not a surprise, but even just little, ordinary cafes serve very nice, strong, real coffee and cheap too – about 1.20 euro is standard.

This is a very easy to like Spanish custom. Because the main meal of the day is in the middle of the day (or about 2 to 4pm), most people go out in the evening at night for a walk, to take the kids to the park or walk the dog. In the older areas where the bars and restaurants are in abundance this often involves dropping in to the local for a drink, usually a cervesa (beer) and a bite to eat … not a whole meal, just a plate or two to share and often taken at the bar. Then you move on to try out the specialty at some other bar where you again have a drink and a plate of food. On the weekends or holidays it is not uncommon to see the whole family (even toddlers) enjoying tapas until very late at night.

Some of the standard tapas we have tried are potatoes ajo (potatoes with mayonnaise and garlic), albondigas (meatballs), potatoes a la pobre (potatoes fried with onion) mejionnes (muscles in their shell), ensalada rusa (potato salad with tuna).

This way of passing the evening is very pleasant, means you always eat as you drink and walk a fair bit too. I haven’t seen a really drunk Spaniard yet and they even have zero alcohol beer as well as light.

Well we have lived in the shadow of Sagrada Familia (Gaudi’s enormous and unfinished cathedral – a bit like a sand drip castle), for almost 3 weeks now so decided it was time to join the throngs of tourists who visit it each day and have a look inside. Actually we picked today because it was really cold and rainy and a lot of tourists only go out in fine weather but it was still very busy. Apparently it is the most visited tourist attraction in Barcelona and I believe it.

It is an enormous structure and will be almost twice as high when it is finished. The exterior is sculptured, carved and laid with tiles. There is religious symbolism everywhere. The interior uses different types and coloured stones and copies nature to look like a forest, leaves, flowers and stars.

Work is still in progress in the centre and building the remaining 5 towers which will be as big or bigger than the present ones – it is hard to imagine. It is due to be finished by 2020 and will be great to see then.

Gaudi’s work looks so simple and natural but then you see the sketches and the miniature models that he built and see the amount of maths and geometry that is needed to calculate the stresses and weight. Because he died before it was finished other artists have been working on it so there are a number of different styles but it is Gaudi’s overall building that is the masterpiece.

Even the little schoolhouse on the same grounds is amazing with its rippling roof and curved walls – nothing is straight.